Neither influencers, customers nor journalists … “the people” are back for men’s fashion shows

Paris, Bluemarble fashion show in my childhood Molière school. A friend asks: “Where is ours?” She talks about the small group of journalists that we train. Yes, you hardly notice my colleagues, lost in the midst of guests, each cooler than the next. Chic and cool, so much so that I invent the word “chool” in front of them. They immediately recognize themselves in this word and make it jump, just like in basketball. I have the impression of standing in front of an incarnated fashion magazine. No one here is undressed. Each look is a source of inspiration. Everyone takes pictures of everyone, everyone starts following each other on Instagram, everyone knows each other at the end of the week.

They are amazed at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode: The digital platform has gone from 1 million visits a year to 700,000 in just three months. Young people have not lost interest in fashion at all, on the contrary. And what has changed is that now they are invited. Before, there were journalists (a lot), celebrities, buyers and customers in the parades. These people formed a coterie with its ranks, its places, its zones. Bloggers, then influencers, joined.

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And who do we have now? The people. A “people”, in the state, does not necessarily have 800 K followers on Instagram, but purely in appearance it lands there. He is pleasant, often has a side job, loves quickdraw, relaxation. He is irresistible. A “people” is a real “people”, only better.

This year we saw a lot of “people” in shows. And if it’s the males showing that these outsiders are invading, it’s no coincidence. The women’s parades are too tight. Too many looks. Too much desire to return from the guests’ side, and therefore too many impulses to do well. While he is “people”, he surfs between the brand and his own stuff.

Bianca Saunders

A ‘people’ at the entrance to Bianca Saunder’s show: her jeans look in two parts, shorts and trousers. He tells me: “It’s Raf Simons.” A friend in the room: “Hey, you have the funds!” He explains to me: “What brands want is that we actually wear them.” Must see it worn “, as we used to say a few years ago while looking thoughtfully at a garment in a magazine’s fashion series. And everything is there, in this life instead of the interstellar void of the total appearance. By the way, wouldn’t the “coal” go through Bianca Saunders’ little knit sweat suit?

“I cut up some old Dries pants. I was hot today. »

Dries van Notten (Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com/ Imaxtree)
Dries van Notten (Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com/ Imaxtree)

A “people” at JW Anderson: scattered in his chair, on the front row, in giant beige trousers with large pleats. “Yes, it’s JW …” And he lets himself be photographed. Right after, the JW Anderson show shows: an anthem to the mythical objects of youth. Selfie (self-portrait, okay) by Rembrandt printed on clothes.

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JW Anderson (JW Anderson)
JW Anderson (JW Anderson)

In his chair the “people” sat up. Also a “people” with Dries Van Noten in this fantastic beauty show, where tubular skirts are added to the costumes. He has pleated Bermuda shorts with flowers: “I cut up some old Dries pants. I was hot today. »

Craig Green (Isidore Monday)
Craig Green (Isidore Monday)

A “people” who overlaid silk underpants and wide shorts, with Craig Green, on this gifted show. He’s taking me to Craig Green eventually. Three months ago, my new friend knew no one. He tells me about the collection we just saw: “A man in his most beautiful, who can lighten up, change (you saw, there are little legs that came out of the look, like this carved clothes that we used to find in magazines), that can change completely. »

Ven (Nicolas Sisto)
Ven (Nicolas Sisto)

A “people” at Loewe, with a tank top printed with donuts over huge, sky-colored jeans. Show Loewe about our relationship with nature, with grass growing all over our clothes. And leggings. Lots of leggings. For men, we say leggings ». We are not done having fun. But what a champion we have there, for sure, with this Jonathan Anderson!

Loewe (Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com)
Loewe (Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com)

Where was I? Oh yes, even at Armani, where nothing ever changes too much, several young men are present among the audience for the Emporio Armani show, all in these greige outfits that are the color of the house. Everyone takes their picture. Moments later, we see their brother parade on the podium. As if this style went from the podium to the ranks, by capillarity. We want that everywhere.

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Armani (Armani)
Armani (Armani)

Young Korean pop stars at Céline

Celine (Celine)
Celine (Celine)

Céline is one of the few big houses that loves to invite “people”. They spot shots, which everyone then tears off (so does Gucci). At the Céline show, the collection’s furious appearance also parades children sitting on the floor – all more “cool” than the others, all so Slimane – only too many young Korean pop stars who gather so many people on the esplanade at the Palais de Tokyo that for security reasons we were forbidden to go out eventually. Even Bernard Arnault will rise in the extremities to go and film the audience.

Dior (YANNIS VLAMOS) menswear, ready to use
Dior (YANNIS VLAMOS) menswear, ready to use

With Dior “people” so much in Dior that we wish they had had time to acquire the clothes. The beautiful garden of Granville, reconstructed in Val-de-Grâce, is so photogenic that the shorts over boxer shorts suggested by Kim Jones, her double-breasted tunics, her water-green stitching boots, all this gets a fame right away. Kim Jones brought “people” back to him, but with a little too much love for fame. The dosage is hard to come by: such a large house does not escape “names count double”. Divine show, by the way.

Dolce & Gabanna (Monica Feudi)
Dolce & Gabanna (Monica Feudi)

At Dolce & Gabbana, guests dressed by the brand are a sight to themselves. And it’s gratifying, because it’s the honor of a bling that’s a way of perceiving life. It is unmistakable, part of Italian culture: a third of the models are remakes from the 2000s Carried by hundreds of thousands of people for twenty years. Also worn – in masculine and plural – by probably everyone, Prada looks, these leather shorts softened by pastel.

Prada (Monica Feudi)
Prada (Monica Feudi)

Hi! there are “people” at Vuitton. But where it’s strongest is that they’re on stage in an extraordinary marching band (Florida A & M University marching band), dressed up, how do you say? in … “bragging”? We all want them, at all the parades! The collection: clothes from optimistic minds, full of childhood, knowing that such a state of mind is a challenge to the international atmosphere. An enormous love is shouted in this parade.

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Human Journal of Fashion: “It’s Couture When I Say It”

Vuitton (Vuitton)
Vuitton (Vuitton)

I talked about celebrities before. Celebrities are human, but they are far too famous to be “human”. The case with Ami is interesting. The brand has built its reputation on an enveloping, reassuring, adorable karma. A strain that we recognize on a tender appearance. In two seasons, the brand has grown significantly and tried a more aggressive wardrobe, more night. And besides, Ami likes the stars. It’s not easy to grow without this push towards the public’s ‘wow effect’. We need even more “people” here.

People in pleated skirts

The problem is that they are elusive. They look like they want to go everywhere, but they’ve been partying in the meantime, and after mysteriously disappearing, they suddenly reappear for a Louis-Gabriel Nouchi show (where customers especially parade!), At Egonlab or at Y / Project.

YProject (Daniele Mango)
YProject (Daniele Mango)

Where they are pushing for the hype. Sometimes it smells of clutter. They are with Marine Serre, who invited thousands of people from her community via Instagram, and formulate the very essence of the article you are reading: “Maturity must open up to street people. » Words of gold.

With a bucket on his head and a stool around his neck, Shaheel Shermont is a pastiche of fashion shows, and it’s fun!

Marine Serre (ARNEL DELA GENTE)
Marine Serre (ARNEL DELA GENTE)

I’m into an avalanche of “cool” people at Fendi because Silvia Fendi has been smart and cool for years. Does she know how much the sensuality of her proposal (the little Indian moccasins, the fringed jeans and the little woolen caps like knitted chechias) is created for children who can not afford it but who could sell it so well? !

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Fendi (ALDO CASTOLDI)
Fendi (ALDO CASTOLDI)

I saw at Paul Smith a whole tray of teenagers “chool”, for a collection that was just as much. Paul Smith, 76 years old (and an Olympic form), in the midst of these teens, a marvel.

One day a sumptuous mirror came into my life

Paul Smith (Paul Smith)
Paul Smith (Paul Smith)

At the end of the Hermès show, after seeing these young men whose looks the whole audience marvels at, wearing pastels that make you want to rub everything you have, or wide Bermuda shorts made of suit fabric summer , I tell myself that these models should all stay after the show. Not just to pose, but to have a drink, even while mingling with their own clothes. For the magazine is them.

“Why do men always dress the same? Sophie Fontanel answers you

Hermes (Filippo Fior)
Hermes (Filippo Fior)

Talking to them, even if it’s on a Netflix series you like, already makes you want to dress like them. The “coal” can not, can no more, just pass in front of us, as if they were far away. When I left Hermès, I came across a couple of models on the street, sitting on a low wall. Sublime.

Tom Browne And Lecca
Tom Browne And Lecca

Seated too, but among the audience, downright the models from the Thom Browne show. After a short tour, they take a seat in the front row, in the middle of many guests dressed as them, ie. in school shorts. Others are in pleated skirts. On the street, a “people” who could not enter. But he is also in a pleated skirt.

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Of course. Everything communicates.

Journal Humain de la mode: “It’s more and more flashy”

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